Greetings from Orlando!

[RobPatton]

Greetings all, finally caved in and took on the project of my father's 1970 sedan. Purchased new for $854.

Car was parked in the late 80s, in running order, and left to sit. I managed to air up the tires (and they are holding air) and get it to the shop, just trying to clean out the rat nests/etc. Surprisingly, with a minor amount of work, I was able to get it started.

Have a few questions:

How can I get keys copied?
Is there a std blank?
Are the doors different from the ignition? I have a subaru key that opens the door, but ignition is a different

Is there a problem, with just pre-mixing the fuel myself? I don't have a gas tank, and I wasn't sure if the oil pumper was working...

Ready to get some brakes done, is it worth attempts to rebuild cyl and master, or is it more common to just send them off to be sleeved and rebuilt?

Whats the best option for tires? tubeless? stick with tubes? My tires are so bad, I can SEE the air in them, need to get them off and painted, and some new rubber.

Does anyone sell a back window and gasket? Mine has been broken since 75, or so, and now its REALLY bad.

Can't wait to get this thing running, painted, and get it in some shows.

[RobPatton]

A Few pics...

[Garm]

Tubes with tires, yes.

Yes on the sleeving -- do it once, do it right. I've had to go back in there after honing and it's not much fun.

I would get your oil pump confirmed working and use it with the reservoir.
Premix is just fine for a while, but the car is designed the way it is for a reason.
(with that said, I'm premixing on my performance build with no issues so far)

[RobPatton]

It had previously suggested Whitepost for the rebuild, but I've not called them yet. My pressure washer pump died, so I need to get that rebuilt before I can blast this thing and start taking parts off.

At this point, my attitude is that pre-mix is better than NO mix. I'm not even sure how to tell that the mix pump is working, if I did add oil.

[Garm]

If it's not smokin' it's broken.

[rogerbhp]

White Post is very spendy! Look for a cheaper resleever. (Maybe the one in Upland, CA .... can't remember the name.)

Look on the lock for a number (like F650.) Then put a note here asking for the number of the key you need. If that is unsuccessful, any good locksmith should be able to make what you need using ILCO blanks. They won't look the same as your original key but they'll work.

You can't use tubeless tires due to the wheels being split-rim. Use tubes with a 90 degree bend in the valve stems. You can use tubes available at most Honda motorcycle shops. Ask for 3.50-4.00 x 10". The tubes will look too small in diameter but I've been using them for 20 years without incident.

Good luck with your car!

[2stroketurbo]

Hi Rob, Wow. That Florida Ocean air really corroded your Subie.

Do you have a plastic rear window?

is this a 1968 three speed car? I believe all 69-70 Sedans had glass rear windows. Maybe take some interior shots to confirm. Welcome to the club!

We'll help you get it on the road and to the show circuit !

[2stroketurbo]

White Post is very spendy! Look for a cheaper resleever. (Maybe the one in Upland, CA .... can't remember the name.)

Look on the lock for a number (like F650.) Then put a note here asking for the number of the key you need. If that is unsuccessful, any good locksmith should be able to make what you need using ILCO blanks. They won't look the same as your original key but they'll work.

You can't use tubeless tires due to the wheels being split-rim. Use tubes with a 90 degree bend in the valve stems. You can use tubes available at most Honda motorcycle shops. Ask for 3.50-4.00 x 10". The tubes will look too small in diameter but I've been using them for 20 years without incident.

Good luck with your car!

Karps is the re-sleever Roger is talking about

http://www.karpspowerbrake.com/

[rogerbhp]

For tires, you'll need to decide whether you want to stay with the original bias ply (4.80 x 10) or go to radials (5.20 x 10.) There are no tires made in a radial whitewall (damn) so if you want whitewalls you'll need to stay with the primitive technology of bias tires. I'd recommend that you run blackwall radials. Due to space limitations in the trunk, don't buy five radials because the spare won't fit. Try to save one of your original 4.80 x 10 bias tires for a spare.

[RobPatton]

Hi Rob, Wow. That Florida Ocean air really corroded your Subie.

Do you have a plastic rear window?

is this a 1968 three speed car? I believe all 69-70 Sedans had glass rear windows. Maybe take some interior shots to confirm. Welcome to the club!

We'll help you get it on the road and to the show circuit !

Yes, the rear window is plastic. I'm pretty sure its a 4 speed car, though I haven't driven it in 30 years.

[RobPatton]

For tires, you'll need to decide whether you want to stay with the original bias ply (4.80 x 10) or go to radials (5.20 x 10.) There are no tires made in a radial whitewall (damn) so if you want whitewalls you'll need to stay with the primitive technology of bias tires. I'd recommend that you run blackwall radials. Due to space limitations in the trunk, don't buy five radials because the spare won't fit. Try to save one of your original 4.80 x 10 bias tires for a spare.

I'm fine with just blackwall tires, it has a random mix of tires on it now, but none of them are safe. Is there one brand of tire and tube that seems the most cost effective? I've had very little luck finding anything in the united states that was avail, so clearly I'm not looking in the right place.

[MrAndrewLittle]

Welcome to the board!

I'm new here as well, but I've already found a lot of great information. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Andy,

[rogerbhp]

The last set of tires I bought came from Tires-Easy at (877) 253-6191. If I remember correctly, they were Dutch tires (Vredestein or something like that.) They've been on my truck for about a year and seem to be fine.

[rogerbhp]

If your car still has the original gearshift knob, it will tell you if it's a three speed or more likely, a four speed. The three speed is highly sought after by many members.

I don't recommend mixing bias and radial tires. However, you may not have any spare unless you keep a bias for that purpose. If you keep one bias tire, never use it except in an emergency and drive on it only at low speed until you can get home. Use a new tube in the spare.

[RobPatton]

What should I expect to pay for a tire and tube?

It looks like if I'm in the UK, I have lots of options, but so far most local places can only supply a trailer tire in this size.

[RobPatton]

If your car still has the original gearshift knob, it will tell you if it's a three speed or more likely, a four speed. The three speed is highly sought after by many members.

I don't recommend mixing bias and radial tires. However, you may not have any spare unless you keep a bias for that purpose. If you keep one bias tire, never use it except in an emergency and drive on it only at low speed until you can get home. Use a new tube in the spare.

I'm 99% sure its a 4 speed car. Seems like 3rd was 1:1 and 4th was an overdrive of sorts. The rear window is clearly plastic, its terrible discolored and very brittle.

[mt_wallet]

What should I expect to pay for a tire and tube?

It looks like if I'm in the UK, I have lots of options, but so far most local places can only supply a trailer tire in this size.

Welcome to the club, Rob

I purchased my tires from Coker Tire in the USA, they are King radials $65 ea. and the tubes I purchased from a local ATV / Snowmobile shop here for $5.95 ea. They seem to be a good tire.
Hope this helps.
Jim

[Sigmaz]

Early 69's had plastic rear windows as well.
My guess is that he may have a right side directional stalk as well

[RobPatton]

Early 69's had plastic rear windows as well.
My guess is that he may have a right side directional stalk as well

I'm not sure what directional stalk means. Does that mean turn signal? I'm trying to see if I have some pics of the inside of the car to even look. I was trying to get it cleaned up before I took to many pics. Is there an example somewhere you could point me to that explains what I'm looking for?


Does this help?

[2stroketurbo]

Early 69's had plastic rear windows as well.
My guess is that he may have a right side directional stalk as well

I'm not sure what directional stalk means. Does that mean turn signal? I'm trying to see if I have some pics of the inside of the car to even look. I was trying to get it cleaned up before I took to many pics. Is there an example somewhere you could point me to that explains what I'm looking for?


Does this help?

Yep. that is right column turn signal stalk.

Does the gear shift knob say OT or 4 ?
Is there a fuel shut of level right of the HEAT lever?

if yes, you have a 1968 or early 69. Common to the east coast it seems.

[2stroketurbo]

whoop. if your gear shifter knob does NOT have OT or 4th then you most likely have a 1968 3 speed car

[RobPatton]

whoop. if your gear shifter knob does NOT have OT or 4th then you most likely have a 1968 3 speed car

Mine has OT

[rogerbhp]

OT is the Japanese way of saying Over the Top (overdrive.)

[Sigmaz]

SOA offices were originally in the suburbs of Philly.

Bala-Cynwyd PA.

That may explain the east cost saturation of the old ones.

[RobPatton]

I see that someone has reproduced the front windshield and gasket, is there anything available for the rear plastic window?

[RobPatton]

One of the tires I have is (what was a) nice look Pirelli Cinturato Radial....

[RobPatton]

Shifter and floor levers...

[books1]

I see that someone has reproduced the front windshield and gasket, is there anything available for the rear plastic window?

I just bought a (flat) non-factory acrylic rear screen from Japan. I actually bought acrylic way back in 1980 and cut it out myself. That served well until recent years when it started developing tiny cracks around the perimeter of the screen, due largely methinks to UV rays. I recall that I made up a cardboard template to begin with from the empty hole where a screen must have originally been, some years before I bought the car.

Cheers,

Ian

[RobPatton]

WhitePost seems to quote about 750 to rebuild all 6 cyls, and the master. Anyone have any experience with something cheaper?

What should I expect to pay for shoe relining, and is there a good vendor for that?

Is there a cross reference for seals?

I am slowly pulling it apart, and sand blasting and glass beading the hubs and drums, hope to at least having it be able to stop well, one of these days soon.

[rogerbhp]

Rob, you need to spend some time reading past posts. Start with (1) "Brake Cylinders" and (2) "Resleeving of Brake Cylinders" here on this forum. White Post is generally thought to be among the most expensive of the resleeving shops.

[RobPatton]

Yea I did that for an hour or so, and I guess I've just never found a definitive answer. I guess I was looking for a readers digest ver, a faq perhaps. I did find the crossover for the seals, and I ordered some gasket material so I can laser cut some new gaskets when I do finally get the wheels done. I guess I'll spend a few hours and cut a whole bunch of gaskets, that might be fun too.

I'll keep reading, and making notes.

[2stroketurbo]

WhitePost seems to quote about 750 to rebuild all 6 cyls, and the master. Anyone have any experience with something cheaper?

What should I expect to pay for shoe relining, and is there a good vendor for that?

Is there a cross reference for seals?

I am slowly pulling it apart, and sand blasting and glass beading the hubs and drums, hope to at least having it be able to stop well, one of these days soon.

Rob, do you know if White Post quoting you the full complete rebuild, ready to bolt on ?

[RobPatton]

Their reply: "Good afternoon Rob- The cost to sleeve and rebuild the wheel cylinders is $80/per cylinder and the master cylinder is $225. Return shipping and handling is $20 (within US). All work will be returned to you with a lifetime warranty. If you would like to use our services, please complete the Brake Request Form found on our website and include it with your order. Please let us know if you have any further questions regarding our services."


So (80*6)+225+20 = 725.

They don't mention much, I assume thats ready to bolt on.

WhitePost seems to quote about 750 to rebuild all 6 cyls, and the master. Anyone have any experience with something cheaper?

What should I expect to pay for shoe relining, and is there a good vendor for that?

Is there a cross reference for seals?

I am slowly pulling it apart, and sand blasting and glass beading the hubs and drums, hope to at least having it be able to stop well, one of these days soon.

Rob, do you know if White Post quoting you the full complete rebuild, ready to bolt on ?

[2stroketurbo]

I wonder if that price includes the internal parts? I heard a rumor they only sell cylinders complete now due to liability

[Garm]

WAY too many threads on this brake stuff right now. Can some Moderator combine and prune, please?

[subaru360nut]

Apple Hydraulics charges a lot less than White Post.

Ed

[RobPatton]

Apple Hydraulics charges a lot less than White Post.

Ed

Best I can tell, AppleHyd want 85$ per cyl, vs 80$ per cyl for white post.

Am I missing something?

[subaru360nut]

Last batch I sent to Apple were $50. each (wheel cyls)

Ed

[oldone]

Ed, I believe he is getting a total rebuild price on each cyl. If that's right, $35.00 is a lot for one cup & one dust cover. I can't lay my hands on my ticket from Apple but I think $ 50.00 is what I paid also.