• New member from Palm Springs California.

Posted: **Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:40 pm**

Hello my name is Khalid, I'm from Palm Springs CA currently working on my brothers 360 Sedan with OT. The car is running but it needs brakes. I'm going to replace all the wheel cylinders and brake lines. So far I noticed the wheel bearings aren't rolling easily. Another problem is that my rear passenger shaft boot is leaking gear oil. I'm so glad that this discussion forums exists because I'm a DIY as long there is information there's a way to mend this car back to the road. I will post pics of the build.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:01 am**

xfunkyflipx wrote:Hello my name is Khalid, I'm from Palm Springs CA currently working on my brothers 360 Sedan with OT. The car is running but it needs brakes. I'm going to replace all the wheel cylinders and brake lines. So far I noticed the wheel bearings aren't rolling easily. Another problem is that my rear passenger shaft boot is leaking gear oil. I'm so glad that this discussion forums exists because I'm a DIY as long there is information there's a way to mend this car back to the road. I will post pics of the build.

Welcome! we are here to help. So much enthusiasm , great !

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:34 am**

Welcome to the club. I live next door in Palm Desert.

Are you Linus' brother? The one I meet a few weeks back?

Either way welcome!

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:56 am**

I have axle boots.

Call KARPS brakes to have your wheel cylinders resleeved, then rebuild them.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:25 am**

Yessir @ Jorge that car was just sitting at his garage so i told him ill work on it. The car is on jackstands right now at his hous.. I bought some wheel cylinders at carquest ill be getting them this Monday. I'd like to salvage the brake lines but i stripped the bolt ill just have to bend cut and flange new ones. Im gonna search this forum for anyone who sells brake shoes.
Thanks for the welcome @2stroketurbo.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:55 am**

Welcome to the club. We like pics?? So post some soon.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:27 am**

Don't throw away any of your old parts because you'll almost certainly end up using them. I'll be surprised if you can find any new parts that fit at Car Quest. Brakes are the #1 problem with the 360 but we've figured out an answer, in most cases. It usually requires fixing your old stuff rather than replacing with new parts. Good luck and post pictures of whatever you find.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:56 am**

xfunkyflipx wrote:Yessir @ Jorge that car was just sitting at his garage so i told him ill work on it. The car is on jackstands right now at his hous.. I bought some wheel cylinders at carquest ill be getting them this Monday. I'd like to salvage the brake lines but i stripped the bolt ill just have to bend cut and flange new ones. Im gonna search this forum for anyone who sells brake shoes.
Thanks for the welcome @2stroketurbo.

Nobody sells new brake shoes, take them to a re-liner. You'll find that is the case with most 360 parts.

Reuse, Recycle, Repair, Repeat !

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:10 am**

Stanley in Okc is relining Olyeller's brake shoes now,But he has increased his price to $20.00 a shoe. Stating they take a lot of time to do. Will be ready next week.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:33 pm**

We use a local company to reline the shoes. You have to specify thickness, IF your drums have been turned it's thicker. 5/32" and 3/16" maybe?

Ed knows the two numbers; I can never remember and have to look it up every darn time.

Posted: **Sun Jun 22, 2014 5:21 pm**

I'll be getting them tomorrow so I'll be posting some pics. I'll be going to a brake specialist tomorrow to have them build some lines. I will try to salvage all the parts and rebuild them. I guess there's a shop in Upland that rebuild the cylinders, Here is what I'm working on.

Posted: **Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:28 pm**

Micro Image wrote:We use a local company to reline the shoes. You have to specify thickness, IF your drums have been turned it's thicker. 5/32" and 3/16" maybe?

Ed knows the two numbers; I can never remember and have to look it up every darn time.

Welcome to the Club!

These numbers are right, 5/32" for uncut drums, 3/16 if they have been cut
0.015" or more.

Ed

Posted: **Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:29 pm**

PS - I have good front wheel bearings if yours do not
clean up.

Ed

Posted: **Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:11 pm**

I was able to salvage the brake lines and ditched replacing the old cylinders. After cleaning the brakes I was able to determine that brake shoes has still a good lining on them. I was able to buy rebuild kit from car quest for the rears perfect fit part# c7880 And for now I'm using cups part# c675 for front brakes. Honing the cylinders was kinda fun.It's a temporary fix and will probably just have the front pistons resleeved. So far I have good brakes without leaks on all four wheels. Now the bad I need a new castle nut( never ever use an impact gun on this car) and fuel valve has a small hole. Maybe I need to rebuild the valve, anyone who has a spare would be glad to take it from your hands. I'm still waiting for my axel boots to arrive but that's another story.

Posted: **Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:28 pm**

There are replacement fuel valve nipples available..

That's most likely where your fuel leak is coming from.

See the following link

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3481

Posted: **Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:45 pm**

xfunkyflipx wrote:I was able to salvage the brake lines and ditched replacing the old cylinders. After cleaning the brakes I was able to determine that brake shoes has still a good lining on them. I was able to buy rebuild kit from car quest for the rears perfect fit part# c7880 And for now I'm using cups part# c675 for front brakes. Honing the cylinders was kinda fun.It's a temporary fix and will probably just have the front pistons resleeved. So far I have good brakes without leaks on all four wheels. Now the bad I need a new castle nut( never ever use an impact gun on this car) and fuel valve has a small hole. Maybe I need to rebuild the valve, anyone who has a spare would be glad to take it from your hands. I'm still waiting for my axel boots to arrive but that's another story.

awesome progress , great to hear. A castle nut shouldn't be that hard to find....

Posted: **Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:53 pm**

I'm sure I have a castle nut for you.

Posted: **Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:25 pm**

Yea@ sigmaz I opened the fuel valve found that the nipple was badly torn good thing it's an easy fix.I ordered two nipple parts from Jon just in case. Thanks @micro image I hope you can find that spare. Well while waiting I'll be replacing the axel boots.(it looks like it's going to be a challenge)

Posted: **Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:23 pm**

Is the rubber boot torn, or has it just slipped off the axle flange???? If not torn, clean up the flange & boot slide it back on & roll the retaining spring back on. Then fill the gearbox before running.

Posted: **Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:35 am**

Yes, there is a tear on the axle boot. After changing the gear oil, I could see the fresh gear oil slowly dripping on that rear right axle. I received my replacement boots from ebay but my excitement was short lived due to another problem, Blown shocks

I was able to find some time to remove the rear right axle this evening for cleanup. New boots will be installed tomorrow.

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:23 am**

How do you know your shocks are blown? Are they leaking?

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 5:51 pm**

I could easily push the shock down with one hand and pull it up without effort, i dont know if it leaked. The good is that the left side shock slowly goes up when fully depressed. What shocks do you use @Micro image? I have been reading on the forums that some used the ones from Napa. i saw this on ebay using the old motorcraft shock part number. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Motorcraft ... 9a&vxp=mtr

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:10 pm**

I haven't replaced mine. Mine move pretty easily up and down as well; I figure unless they leak, I'm not worrying about it.

I can't say for sure what's normal.

Mark? Wayne? Ed?

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:29 pm**

For me if they go up & down & don't stick I would use them. I think a new shock could be found, but the larger piston size & valve damping would be for 3000 to 4000 LB vehicle. I think that would make for a stiff ride. My 58 BMW 600 Limo uses shocks that only have resistance one way & not the other, Subaru could be the same??? Just my thoughts, some one else my have a different answer.

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:42 pm**

I have a pair of NOS shocks (not Subaru) which I've never used because I'm afraid that they will be too stiff. Most shocks are for cars that weigh 2,500 to 4,000 pounds so I expect that they will be too stiff for a little Subie. My shocks are for sale @ $50 a pair, no guarantee, no refund, if someone feels adventurous. If anyone is interested, I'll reconfirm the part numbers and whether they are front or rear.

Posted: **Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:20 pm**

Micro Image wrote:How do you know your shocks are blown? (...)

Posted: **Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:27 pm**

books1 wrote:
Micro Image wrote:How do you know your shocks are blown? (...)

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:06 am**

Finally got the car running. Here's a short video of my brother driving his car. http://youtu.be/8dallzCxmx4. So far it starts and stops without any problems. Driver door does not fully close looks like the previous owner had the door hinged welded bad alignment. Im going to have my friend paint the car im working on stripping the car to bare metal. I might put a tachometer due to learning shift points for this car(inspired by 2stroketurbo). NO fluid leaks after driving around the neighborhood

the car definitely needs upholstery too.

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 6:55 am**

That unmistakable sound......

- and that unmistakable giggle of joy, too! (from the camera wrangler)

Congrats!

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:01 am**

xfunkyflipx wrote:Finally got the car running. Here's a short video of my brother driving his car. http://youtu.be/8dallzCxmx4. So far it starts and stops without any problems. Driver door does not fully close looks like the previous owner had the door hinged welded bad alignment. Im going to have my friend paint the car im working on stripping the car to bare metal. I might put a tachometer due to learning shift points for this car(inspired by 2stroketurbo). NO fluid leaks after driving around the neighborhood the car definitely needs upholstery too.

Good job ! way to stick with it! awesome progress !

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:01 am**

xfunkyflipx wrote:Finally got the car running. Here's a short video of my brother driving his car. http://youtu.be/8dallzCxmx4. So far it starts and stops without any problems. Driver door does not fully close looks like the previous owner had the door hinged welded bad alignment. Im going to have my friend paint the car im working on stripping the car to bare metal. I might put a tachometer due to learning shift points for this car(inspired by 2stroketurbo). NO fluid leaks after driving around the neighborhood the car definitely needs upholstery too.

Good job ! way to stick with it! awesome progress !

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:21 pm**

When it stops accelerating, you shift. Glad we got that covered.

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:18 pm**

Micro Image wrote:When it stops accelerating, you shift. Glad we got that covered.

....if I drove mine like that it would go 300 mph ! (not)

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 6:27 pm**

Someone needs some top end freshening up...
But its awesome that its moving!

Great job.

Posted: **Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:25 pm**

I guess I need to shift once the car starts to rattle. I get lots of compliments from my brother's neighbors even though its not road worthy yet. I will be posting some pics when i get this car to bare metal. BTW that was me giggling hahahaa.

Posted: **Tue Jun 27, 2017 10:01 am**

xfunkyflipx wrote: ↑12 years ago I was able to salvage the brake lines and ditched replacing the old cylinders. After cleaning the brakes I was able to determine that brake shoes has still a good lining on them. I was able to buy rebuild kit from car quest for the rears perfect fit part# c7880 And for now I'm using cups part# c675 for front brakes. Honing the cylinders was kinda fun.It's a temporary fix and will probably just have the front pistons resleeved. So far I have good brakes without leaks on all four wheels. Now the bad I need a new castle nut( never ever use an impact gun on this car) and fuel valve has a small hole. Maybe I need to rebuild the valve, anyone who has a spare would be glad to take it from your hands. I'm still waiting for my axel boots to arrive but that's another story.

Any Idea what these parts fit? I don't have a car quest local. I'm fixing Hippie's brakes now. Would like to try them.

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