All those pics are from when it was under construction, it actually is a bit neater now, with "WARNING HIGH VOLTAGE" labels that DMV made me put on for registration.
The batteris are 85 AH, which are too small, I may go to 105 Amp hour batteries. My range is about 27 miles on the Subi Odometer with the 85 Amp hour batteries. For anyone that is interested (your Ed, Sara?), this is how you figure that out:
85 amps X 120 Volts = 10,200 watts or 10.2KW
10,200 X .57 (57% one hour discharge derate)= 5,814 Watts
5,814 / 250 watts/mile(this figure is a rough guess about energy consumption based on air and chassis drag/friction, frontal area of the van, etc. = 23.26 miles
I don't have a ampmeter, but I think the Cold cranking equiv. for those should be about 650 amps, so yeah, but I really doubt I ever pull that much from it.
I drew up the shaft, and cut the stock from an old torsion bar, but I traded welding labor for machine labor with a friend of mine. I could have done it myself probably, but It would have taken a lot longer, and I still would have had to barter for the machine time. The harderst part was the taper to match the flywheel. and reinstalling all the bearings! I did end up drilling and retapping the holes in the aluminum seal section of the fan casing for bigger bolts (you can see that in the picture)

-Tony

Tony2ltr wrote:Yes, as a matter of fact it is! When do you remember that from. Were you on the old message board when I first put that together? It was about 6 years ago.
Yes, I have a dummy shaft in there it is about 3 inches longer on the end that used to be the cooling fan, otherwise it has all the same dimensions of the stock crank. The oil ports on the case are blocked off, so the main bearings (I think there are six) all ride in a bath of oil. The sprocket pulleys are from machine industry (BOSTON GEAR, BROWNING, ETC.) and so is the belt. The fan end of the shaft is actually finished to standard measure and cut for keystock to accomodate the american industry pulleys. It is slightly overdriven by one or two teeth just to get the gearing more satifactory. I am about to replace the transmission with one from Ed that has the tallest 360 gear ratio (3.73:1?) And I could still use more, so maybe a larger top (E-Motor) pulley is in order. The mounting plates are made from aluminum plate, I may make tracings of them when I take them apart to install the new trans, so I can duplicate them if anyone ever needed to. The motor plates are actually slotted for belt adjustment, which has to be done on the motor shaft centerline. Lossening the bolts and rocking the motor backwards tightens the belt. The belt is 2 inches wide, I think it is an L50 pitch (about 3/8 inch tooth) but I am going by memory now. I have a Toyota alternator mounted as a poor man's DC-DC converter to charge the 12V battery from the original generator splined-shaft pulley.
The clutch is still there, although it takes the modified coil spring style clutch and housing to hold back the torque of the electric motor. Overall, the thing is much faster than a 360 could ever think about being, with a top speed of near 70 (on the speedometer) on a long flat. Of course this is probably more like 65, which is way faster than you ever want to go in one of these things anyhow!!!!

I'm glad to answer any other questions...-Tony

Yes, although it seems longer ago than that. 8-9 years ago?. I was the only one that believed you put a Katana 600cc streetbike engine in your van. I still don't understand why the other 360 guys refused to believe you. In fact, I still have our personal e-mails saved discussing it. That was about the time I was researching engine transplants for the "Speedracer". I thought long and hard about what you did and almost did the same. As you now know, I didn't go with a bike engine, the lack of reverse killed the idea for me. Funny how history repeats itself. Now, I'm back researching bike engines for another car of mine.

Mark

Maybe you are right, I think it was 2000-2001. I almost put a subaru justy engine and transmission in. I have large stainless steel patches in the floors and where the forward engine cover used to be. I used the same shaft I have now, but with a chain drive instead. I never got a chain guard installed, so I still have the grease spots on the inside of the roof!
The engine mounted behind the rear seat, The cover I made was right up against it, as a matter of fact, I made the new floor patch from that cover. I fashioned a shifter that had a rod that went all the way back to the katana engine so I could select a gear ratio to drive in, which was usually 6th gear. Because I drove the subi trans with the katana trans, I ended up with 24 forward gears and 6 reverse! I never hooked up the clutch, so I had to select the ratio before starting the engine. I would sit there with the engine idling, with the chain zinging along, it was the craziest thing! I also never got around to building and air box for the intakes, so the noise inside the van was intolerable. I got it up to 80 on the Berlin Turnpike one morning with a friend as a passenger. Someone pulled out in front of us and I had to hit the brakes hard, which almost put us over on our side!! Anyhow, the plugs used to load up all the time because the Katana engine always wanted to be in the 8-13,000 Rpm range. Finally, I tool it out into the street in front of my house, put the engine in third, and the subaru trans in first, and gave it hell! The front wheels came off the ground, all the engine mounts bent, the chain popped off, and I had to push it back into the garage.
Anyhow, it was much more trouble than it was worth, BUT, if I had to do it again, I would use a cruiser bike engine. As a matter of fact, I still have the CX500 engine that I modified to go into the subi. I pulled the CX transmission apart and rearranged the gears so that it had just one overdriven output gear. I never got around to putting it together, I ended up deciding that I would go diesel if I used infernal combustion. There are a lot of 6-15 HP diesel air coole engines on ebay that I could use in conjuction with the electric motor and drive belt assembly to make a diesel hybrid. ......I just don't have that kind of time anymore, and lots of other car projects to mess with.
Anyhow, Thanks for believing in some good old Yankee ingenuity! The only bummer is that I threw away the 14 gallon gas tank that i also made for the van.
If you are researching bike engines for a car you want to drive reasonably well, pick a two lunger V with lots of torque that was designed to mave a heavy bike. When I geared the K engine for the subaru, it was geared to half of the top speed of the bike, which increased it's load capability to get a twice heavier car moving. The reason it was so important to used the Subaru transmission, is that you sort of need the flywheel for driveline inertia. I would used a belt drive.
-Tony